現代70年代上班族 Modern 70s Office Workers

2022 入圍Finalist
R102 謝佳翰Hsieh, Chia Han


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靈感來源 / 設計理念

藉由70年代設計師首創像睡袍綁帶的洋裝,且身材胖瘦都能穿,許多女性白天上班到晚上去Disco Bar都不需更換,故承襲當時上班族背服飾背後精神,上班到Disco Bar一衣到底,秉持正裝到休閒皆可穿的初衷,來體現現代白領階級們,時常因職場導致身心俱疲加重內心壓抑,卻遺忘適時釋放壓力,以此系列作品提醒每位工作者適時地抒發自身內心的重要。

Concept / Inspiration

In the 1970s, designers invented dresses that looked like pajamas and could be worn by both fat and thin. Many women did not need to change their clothes from day to night at the Disco Bar. Therefore, they inherited the spirit behind the clothes worn by office workers at that time. Often due to the workplace caused by physical and mental fatigue increased inner depression, but forget to release the pressure at the right time, this series of works to remind each worker to timely express their inner importance.

作品與「永續」、「功能」、「機能」之關聯性

上身以日本TORSO為底板,針對降低邊角料與最大程度保留原始廓型,在減少剪接線又兼具易車縫同時,保有設計及修改最大彈性,因此從袖攏與袖山交點為分割點向下垂直分割,得出包含前袖片的身片及連接袖下至脇邊的插片,使解構身片更貼近矩形,並由脇邊插片調整尺寸達成在最少更動廓型下最大維度做出修改,經計算在不考量對花與布紋條件下,將每片版都以最大維度矩形計算,相較之下共減少24%用布量。
下身原型以最少剪接線及利用活折及插片設計,使褲型貼合男女不同腰臀比,以裙版結構加上褲襠再將脇邊合併,並以脇插式口袋將插片插入,使廓型最大限度保持原樣,並調整脇邊插片活折因應不同腰臀比,另從基本褲型的五條剪接構成降為三條剪接。

SUSTAINABILITY and FUNCTION

Top for Japan's TORSO to reduce scrap and maximum retained the original outline. While reduce the cutting line and both easy to sewing, retains the design and modify maximum flexibility. So from the sleeve and the sleeve to disturb intersection point downward vertical segmentation. It is concluded that contains the former under the body and connecting sleeve of sleeves to insert, on the edge of danger, to deconstruct the body closer to the rectangle. In addition according to the adjusted size of the edge inserts, the maximum dimension was modified under the minimum change profile. According to the calculation, each plate was calculated as the maximum dimension rectangle without considering the matching of flowers and fabric patterns. The cloth consumption was reduced by 24% in total.
And bottom with the less cutting line and using live fold and insert design, make the pants fit men and women different waist-to-hip ratio. Use skirt pattern plus crotch to merge clipping line to insert pocket insert. Let structure make the outline intact to the greatest extent. And adjust to the flank insert to match different waist-to-hip ratio. The other bottom from the basic of five splicing pants down to three splicing.