銅鏽爵魂 Verdigris Jazz

2026 入圍Finalist
R504 鍾睿杰Chong, Ruei Jei


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靈感來源 / 設計理念

看似隨性的爵士即興,實為世代底蘊的淬鍊。本系列將此文化傳承,具象化為老舊銅管樂器上斑駁的銅綠。

為融合時間印記,我打破傳統,以植鞣革結合布料染劑手工染色,重現自然仿舊的呼吸光澤;針織單品則經由數位編程與金屬處理技術,捕捉黃銅氧化時的閃爍共鳴。在服裝結構上,版型設計直接汲取了管樂器的喇叭口與樂器蜿蜒的輪廓,將爵士樂奔放自由的靈魂轉化為流動剪裁。透過服裝解構與材質交融,讓爵士精神於當代紮根,致敬「不完美中的完美」。

Concept / Inspiration

The seemingly effortless improvisation of jazz is the relentless refinement of generational heritage, materialized in this collection as the mottled verdigris on aging brass instruments. 

To capture time's imprint, l use vegetable-tanned leather, unconventionally hand-staining it with fabric dyes to recreate a natural, breathing patina. Complementing this, digitally programmed knitwear-refined through rigorous yarn experiments and metallic spray techniques-captures the shimmering resonance of oxidizing brass.

Structurally, the pattern making is directly inspired by the flared bells and sweeping contours of wind instruments, translating the uninhibited freedom of jazz into fluid, deconstructed silhouettes. Through this complex material fusion, the profound soul of jazz takes root in the contemporary era, paying homage to a timeless "perfect imperfection."

作品與「永續」、「功能」、「機能」之關聯性

本系列將永續精神具象化於「完美之瑕」。特別選用因蟲咬、刮痕或髒污而被市場淘汰的滯銷皮革,將這些帶有時間歷練的瑕疵升級再造,並結合數位編程針織以減少生產廢料。機能上,針織提供絕佳透氣與延展性,皮革則強化了耐用度。源自管樂器輪廓的流線版型不僅呼應爵士樂,更釋放肢體活動空間。

SUSTAINABILITY and FUNCTION

This collection embraces "perfect imperfection" for sustainability. I upcycled discarded, unsellable leather-rejected due to dirt, insect bites, and scratchesgiving new life to these time-worn flaws, paired with zero-waste digital knitwear.

Functionally, the knitwear provides breathability and stretch, while the leather ensures durability. Inspired by wind instruments, the fluid silhouettes maximize freedom of movement, seamlessly merging upcycled aesthetics with practical performance.