漂鳥運動 Wandervögel

2019 首獎First Prize
R092 陳星彤(香港)Chan Leo (Hong Kong)


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靈感來源 / 設計理念

靈感來源 ∙ 漂鳥運動

德國漂鳥運動起源於1896年青年運動,形成的主要因素是反對19世紀末德國威權社會的陳腐思想與生活壓力,因為當時的家政教育重點是學習中產階級或資本家的庸俗生活方式。相對的,漂鳥運動的興起,除了鼓勵青年反抗父母世代的生活價值觀之外,還有反對盲目地追求社會地位與物質,嘗試引導德國青年走入自然、實踐自我,以自身的行動與信念,透過徒步旅行的方式,學習在自然環境中生存,由他們去選擇生活方式,獲得冒險的歷練。整個運動帶給我不同方向的靈感,例如:露營、冒險、制服、旗幟和童軍等。漂鳥運動所主張的,是與我們日常緊張生活完全相反的方式,以悠閒的心情、更多的體力消耗,投身於大自然中。作為一個年青人,生活在這個節奏急速的社會,日常生活幾乎很少走向大自然,Wandervögel背後的意義引發我創作這系列,鼓勵當下年青人除了要求學識上的表現,還要求「坐而言,不如起而行」的精神,好像他們一樣嘗試感受大自然的魅力,發掘自己不同面向。為了增加整個系列的完整度及可塑性,以超過13種的布料配合設計帶出了不同的功能:有輕盈防水防風的尼龍物料、保暖的羊毛或羔羊毛料、耐磨的帆布或人字紋布料(HBT)、古布、雙面使用的斜紋布料和含金屬絲能抗靜電或防輻射的高科技面料,嘗試把不同的元素拼接在一起。我還創作了一套四個的刺繡布章及為鈕扣加入鐳射打印技術増加系列的獨特性。

設計的方向也是希望揉合復古的元素並展望將來,以歷史為背景,用自身的美學去創作,無違地演繹出當下和過去的事。剪裁和形態靈感也是來自他們的制服而啟發,只是加大了版型,以寬鬆的尺寸讓他們不受限制地探索這個大世界。Wandervögel系列中的顏色代表著冒險中的不同章節;黑色代表當中的未知數,希望他們用好奇心去對抗因未知而產生的恐懼;綠色則代表著他們旅程的目的地:大自然;而卡其色代表著冒險中遇到不同困難造成的痕跡,一步一步地紀錄著,在自然中歷練生活的能力,創造屬於年青人的新文化。

Concept / Inspiration

THE SEASON’S INSPIRATION - WANDERVÖGEL

My initial inspiration is from a movement of a German youth group called Wandervögel since 1896 onward. The name can be translated as rambling, hiking or wandering bird. It emphasised freedom, self-responsibility, and adventurism, encourage teenagers to move towards nature, tries something new during the journey. After World War I, the leaders returned disillusioned from the war. The same was true for leaders of German Scouting. So both movements started to influence each other heavily in Germany. From the Wandervögel came a stronger culture of hiking, adventure, bigger tours to farther places, and a younger leadership structure. Scouting brought uniforms, flags, more organisation, more camps, and a clearer ideology. As a teenager who living in this fast-paced society, seldom go into nature in daily life. The meaning of Wandervogel has inspired me to create this collection, encouraging teenagers not only ask for academic performance. Also, need to have to spirit of "Actions speak louder than words". Try to feel the charm of nature and discover their different faces. To increase the integrity and plasticity of the whole collection, I used more than thirteen kinds of fabrics compatible with the design to bring out different functions: light weight and waterproof windproof nylon material, wool or lamb wool to keep you warm, durable canvas or herringbone fabric (HBT), old fabric, double-faced twill fabric and high-tech fabric which can anti-static or anti-radiation containing metal wire. I have created a set of four embroidered patch and add a laser printing technology to the buttons to raise the uniqueness of my collection. The direction of design is about telling a current story and nostalgic one.Using the  history as the background ,and create  its with my own aesthetics, present everything without any violation . The cutting and silhouette more inspired by their uniforms, but I make it more oversized, hope they can explore this world without any limit. The colours in the this collection also represent different chapters in the adventure; Black: the unknown, I hope they can replace fear of the unknown with curiosity; Green: the destination of their journey —nature; Khaki: the traces of different difficulties in their  adventure, step by step to record in the nature, experience the ability to live and create a new culture that belongs to teenagers.

作品與「永續」、「功能」、「機能」之關聯性

以童軍的精神去探索「創意、機能與永續」

在Wandervögel的歷史中,當時更被視為與童軍一樣重要的青年運動之一,因此互相的文化都會受到影響,以前的童軍經驗,亦引發我的興趣去創造這個系列。童軍有句說話叫做「BePrepared」,即是隨時都要在準備好的狀態下,所以我在服飾中加入了不同的功能,探索由衣服到工具概念的可能性,突破現存户外服飾的形象,例如:可分拆出來的帳篷,隨時隨地去到那裡都可以把帳篷隨意打開;可拆式的衣袖,長袖短袖任意轉換,讓大家在不同天氣下也有適當的衣物;由露營地毯加入夾圈令其能穿在身上;亦嘗試拆解帳篷的紙樣去創作㚈套。每套衣服也遵從分層服裝系列去設計,增加可穿性。從服飾中帶出「無需要有任何顧慮就走向大自然」的訊息給大家。系列中你會發現不同的對比去帶出當下和過去的故事,例如:手縫的鎖鏈刺繡和孔眼去對比機器造出來的刺繡,而靈感是來自以前帳篷的細節或是童軍偵察用的符號,透過形式上去帶出兩者生活中的不一樣感覺,前者不完美、需時完成,充滿手工藝感覺,後者則精細而快速能完成,帶出兩個時代的差異。另外我也專注在每一件單品的設計,顧客可以用系列中不同的衣飾去混搭自己的風格去融入他的的日常穿著。

從系列中,可見自身對古著或歷史的事物特別感興趣,對我而言,永續未必需要配合高科技或最流行的技術。相反地以慢時尚的角度自身的設計風格和獨特性令顧客不再追求日新月異的事物。從物料和造工入手,設計出耐穿、實用性高而且經典的款式,帶出另一個角度的永續。即使五年過去、十年過去,依舊的單品配搭不同衣飾,打造屬於你的風格。隨著近年天氣的變幻無常,加上系列背景故事的帶領之下,我亦把機能的元素加入設計,帶出過去和當下不同細節所產生的反差對比;以歷史作靈感去帶出Urban Outdoor的風格,並結合年青人的街頭文化與Outdoor的傳統元素去打造這系列。這種風格還打破現存的户外服形象,把不同感覺的衣飾結合並毫無違和地表現出來,提升了户外服的美感。

SUSTAINABILITY and FUNCTION

EXPLORE “CREATIVITY,FUNCTION AND SUSTAINABILITY” BY THE SPIRIT OF SCOUT’ BOY

In the history of Wandervögel, it was regarded as one of the youth movement as important as the scouts' boy. Therefore, mutual culture started to influence each other heavily in Germany. The experience of being a scout boy also arouses my interest to create this collection. "Be prepared" is one of the quotes of scout boy, which means that "You are always in a state of readiness in mind and body to do your duty.", so I added different functions to each outfit, explore the possibility of the concept from clothes to tools, and breakthrough the existing image of outdoor garment. For example: a tent that can be separated and opened, wherever you go, you can open the tent at will; detachable sleeves, long sleeves, and short sleeves can be arbitrarily converted, help them to confront different weather and situation; The camping mat also allows it to be worn on the body by adding the armhole; I also try to dismantle the pattern of the tent to create the jacket. The whole collection focus on several single items that emphasises the design of the contour and follow the layered clothing system to create each outfit, which increases the wearability. I hope to bring out the concept “No need to have any concerns to go to nature.“ to the wears. You will find different contrasts to present the stories about the current and past, such as hand-stitched chain embroidery and eye-holes to compare with the embroidery created by the machine, those are inspired by the campsite from the olden time and scout notation Through the form to bring out the different feelings in the two lives. The former is not perfect, it takes time to complete, full of craftsmanship, and the latter is fine. It can be done quickly, bringing out the differences between the two eras. Besides, I also focus on the design of each piece, customers can use the different clothing in the series to mix and match their style to integrate into their daily wear.